Month: August 2023

Categories
sailing

World-Class Cruising in the Great Lakes- The North Channel

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We had been hearing for years “You have to go to the North Channel, it’s Amazing!” Everyone says it’s beautiful and a must-visit but we never had time to get there and back until this summer on our way out of the Great Lakes. After our journey in Lake Superior, we headed east, into the North Channel. From Sault St. Marie our first stop was in Milford Haven. We spent one night here and woke up early the next morning to head across the channel, officially into the North Channel anchorages!

Turnbull Island

This was our first anchorage in the North Channel. It’s a nice anchorage with plenty of room. There are many outer islands to explore by dinghy or paddle board. The beach in the anchorage also has a grill, fire pit, and picnic tables. We enjoyed our time here and met several other cruisers. It was nice to get some information and recommendations from people who have cruised the North Channel before.

Beardrop Harbour

This place is stunning! It’s a popular spot but there is plenty of room. We were anchored with about 8-10 other boats the few nights we stayed and everyone was well spaced out. We anchored near the small cut going out to Whalesback Channel. This was perfect for dinghying and paddle boarding out into the channel and back into the anchorage. There is plenty to explore here. We found plenty of blueberries on the islands! There are also many bald eagles in the area! We even saw a little mink running across the shore! One of our favorite spots we visited for sure!

Moiles Harbour

This anchorage is only 6 miles from Beardrop, across the Whalesback Channel. It’s a beautiful sail between the two anchorages. The Sudbury YMCA owns the land around the anchorage but we read that they don’t mind cruisers anchoring as long as you respect the land and water and don’t have bonfires. You can see the ruins of an old sawmill in the bay. The bay is quite large with room for several boats. There are plenty of small, rocky islands to explore. While this anchorage was nice, we felt it was only necessary to stay one night and then keep on moving.

Shoepack Bay

We were told by some other cruisers that this is one of their favorite stops so we were excited to check it out! The bay is deep and there are not many suitable spots to anchor. When we arrived there were two boats stern-tied in the perfect, 20-25ft deep spot. We drove around a bit but couldn’t fit a spot where we felt comfortable stern-tieing. There was also a pretty strong blow forecast the following day so we decided to continue on towards an anchorage we knew we’d be safe in. If you can get a spot here it would be a lovely place to stay! There are beautiful rock cliffs along the northern edge of the bay. Beautiful to drive through as well even if you don’t plan to stay.

Eagle Island

We anchored in the large bay on the northeast side of the island. This is a very large bay with plenty of room. It’s beautiful, with a small rocky island in the center. We enjoyed paddling along the shore around the bay. We were planning to stay here more than one night, to ride out a big blow but the forecast was down-graded so we decided to move on.

Fox Island/Fox Harbour

This place was another one of our favorite stops! We would highly recommend it if you can get a spot! Towards the end of the channel, there is a large opening/pool that 2-3 boats could swing on anchor. We chose to stern-tie along the rocky shore in the channel as two boats were already anchored in the pool. We absolutely loved this spot! We were on the other side of some rocks so we basically had the place to ourselves, unable to see the other two boats. There is a labyrinth of small, rocky channels to explore! Perfect for paddle boarding or kayaking. Entering on a calm day is highly recommended. The channel is about 250 ft wide at its narrowest with rocks and shoals to look out for as you enter.

South Benjamin Island

This island is one of, if not the most popular stop among cruisers in the North Channel. This island is beautiful and the rocky hills are not too steep so there is plenty to walk around and explore! There are two major anchorages on the island and then several, smaller coves you could stern-tie or spider-web into. We stayed in the southwest anchorage. There were at a maximum, 10 other boats in the anchorage. Everyone had enough room but we were definitely closer to our neighbors here than in other anchorages we had visited so far. Although more crowded, this island is worth a visit! We really enjoyed our time here.

You can also explore North Benjamin from Fox Island or from South Benjamin. The north island is more heavily forested but we found several very pretty, rocky spots to walk along the shore.

Crocker Island

The is the last island in the Benjamin Island group. There is a large bay you could anchor in but be prepared- it is about 40ft deep throughout. We chose to duck into the small bay behind the small island. This smaller bay is about 15-20 ft deep with plenty of areas to stern-tie. We arrived late in the afternoon and there were already 4 boats in the smaller bay. It was pretty tight but we found a place to stern-tie and still give everyone enough room. The hills on this island are higher and steeper. We found fewer hills we could walk all the way up but there is still plenty to explore! And, plenty of mink swimming and running along the shore here!

Little Current

The small town of Little Current is in a perfect location for re-provisioning during a North Channel trip. We stopped in for the afternoon but there is plenty of dock space if you wish to spend the night. From what we could gather online ahead of time, you can leave your boat on the wall for free during the day, it isn’t until you spend the night that they charge you. We arrived mid-morning and grabbed a spot along the wall. We found water available at this spot so we filled the tanks, emptied our trash, and headed into town. A few marina staff walked by and nobody told us we needed to pay so as far as we know we didn’t break any rules!

A short walk from the docks there is a Value Mart for groceries and an LCBO for wine, beer, and liquor. The grocery store was pretty well stocked but oddly organized. We did end up finding almost everything on our list. After shopping we headed to The Port for fish and chips. The portions were generous and the food was excellent!

From there we headed back to the boat, waited until the top of the hour, when the swing bridge opened, and then headed out towards our next anchorage. The swing bridge opens on the hour for 15 minutes as long as there is a boat waiting, no need to radio, just don’t miss the opening!

One more note on Little Current- we were told by many cruisers the current is no joke! We couldn’t find an online bouy or anything to tell us real-time current conditions. When we were there we found the current to be about 1 knot going from west to east. If it has been a strong wind for several days this may get worse.

Mary Ann Cove/Baie Fine

We tucked into Mary Ann Cove to ride out a blow. Baie Fine is a beautiful fjord and well worth a visit! Mary Ann Cove is a perfect, very well-protected spot. From the cove, you can hike up Casson Peak. The hike starts at an old dock and the trail is well-marked with ribbons. The views from the top are incredible and the hike itself is very pretty!

The Pool/Baie Fine

The drive up the fjord is wonderful. The pool is a beautiful anchorage with plenty of hiking. It is weedy but we held well, just be prepared to clean off your anchor when you pull it up! From an old dock on the north shore, you can access trails that are part of Killarney Provincial Park. The hike to Topaz Lake is a must. This is the highlight of this anchorage. Do not miss it! We also hiked along part of the La Cloche Silhouette Trail to Artist Lake and then to Cave Lake. This trail is a nicer overall hike than the path to Topaz Lake. Artist Lake and Cave Lake are both very pretty but Topaz is definitely the prettiest. Topaz Lake is also clear enough that we jumped in. The other two lakes we wouldn’t want to swim in.

Covered Portage Cove

This is another very pretty anchorage! It is shallow, depths are about 7-10ft throughout. There are tall, white cliffs along the edge that you can hike up to get great views of the anchorage! We also saw otters and beavers along the shores. This is a popular spot so chances are you won’t have it to yourselves. We were the 11th boat when we arrived but people came and went, we never had more than that. There is plenty of space and there is an outer anchorage as well if it’s too crowded for you.

Killarney

We were told by several cruisers to stay at the Killarney Mountain Lodge. A slip costs $2 Canadian per foot plus a $10 fee for use of all of their amenities. There is a pool, sauna, and free laundry (although only one washer and one drier). The lodge also has several restaurants on-site. We also really enjoyed the short hike to the lighthouse from the property. It really is a nice place to stay after being anchored out, away from towns, stores, and restaurants for so long. There is not much in the town itself. We did find a general store that although overpriced had some food and essentials if you need them. There is not a proper grocery store. There is an LCBO for beer, wine, and liquor.

That concluded our time in the North Channel. From Killarney, we continued into the Georgian Bay. There are many, many, more beautiful spots to anchor and explore within the North Channel. You could spend many summers finding new anchorages!

A few random notes- paddle boards or kayaks are a great way to explore here. We used our paddle boards much more often than our dinghy. It’s easier to land the paddle boards or kayaks on the rocky shore and it allows you to explore more places and small channels/coves that the dinghy may not fit. If you have and can bring both, you will likely use both, if you have to choose we would recommend paddle boards or kayaks. At first, we were not impressed with the water clarity in the North Channel but we found it improves the further east, towards the Georgian Bay you go. Lastly, although having stern-tie line isn’t necessary we did find that it opened up more possibilities and we were very glad we had it with us.

Enjoy your trip through the North Channel! Take your time and soak in the views!

Categories
cruising log

July 2023 Lake Michigan to Lake Superior

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After finishing up our final days of work and emptying out our house, we moved aboard Resande full-time with our cats on 6/30/23. Jackson very quickly took to boat life, and Daisy took some time to adjust but they are now both doing very well.

On July 5th, 2023 we left the dock in Muskegon after breakfast and mimosas at the marina with family and friends. We sailed in very light winds for 2-3 hours then motored to get into port before a storm rolled through. We made it to Pentwater and anchored for two nights, waiting out some strong north winds.

From Pentwater we sailed north to South Manitou Island where we met up with the crew of Kasablanca. They were returning to Muskegon from a year off, cruising to the Bahamas and back. We got some great intel and a few random things we may need along the way. From there, they sailed south and we continued on. After a brief stop in Glen Arbor, we continued onward to Beaver Island.

The sail to Beaver Island featured strong winds and big, confused seas between the islands as we went downwind. Once we got to Beaver Island the wind really picked up. We saw 48 knots of top wind speed that night. Our anchor dragged after becoming fouled in the grassy clay bottom. We got it re-set and thankfully, it didn’t drag again. We enjoyed a few days on Beaver Island, walking around the town, visiting the marine museum and nearby nature preserve. We enjoyed a beer at Whiskey Point Brewing and grabbed some whitefish from the grocery store to grill up in celebration of our first week off the dock. Beaver Island was the first new place we had taken Resande, it was very exciting to be out of familiar waters and exploring new places!

From there we sailed under the Mackinac Bridge, stopping in St. Ignace for the night, this was our first marina stop as there is nowhere nearby to anchor.

From St. Ignace, we made two short stops- Government Bay in the Les Cheneaux Islands and Drummond Island before heading up the river to Sault Ste. Marie MI.

The trip up the river had us fighting the 2-3 knot current and at times wind up to 23 knots on the nose. The first freighter we passed tossed such a wake we nearly lost all speed as we hit the waves.

Sault Ste Marie was another marina stop for us. We watched the largest freighter in the Great Lakes go through the locks here and picked up a much-needed carburetor rebuild kit we ordered for our dinghy engine. Ryan had rebuilt several times since leaving the dock without the needed parts to keep it running, but some of the parts were worn out and needed to be replaced.

The following morning we cleared into Canada and went through the lock on the Canadian side. This was our first-ever experience going through a lock! We were raised up 21 ft and finally, we made it into Lake Superior! We then made our way North to Batchawa Bay, our first anchorage in Lake Superior.

After feeling a bit burnt out, having been moving so quickly to get up to Lake Superior, we spent one night in Batchawa Bay and then one night just 5 miles away in that same area in Harmony Beach before heading further North.

Our next stop was the first real wilderness Northern Lake Superior spot we visited and it did not disappoint! We stayed the night in Sinclair Cove which is a stunning little anchorage! We hiked to the Agawa pictographs and watched a bald eagle hunting from a tree near our boat for the evening.

Sinclair Cove

From there we continued hoping along the northern coast of Lake Superior. Gargantua Harbour was our next stop. During our sail to Gargantua we learned that our house was officially rented and we got final confirmation that Erika’s student loans were officially forgiven! Our plan was all falling into place!

We stayed in Gargantua for two nights, taking time to explore the shipwreck, what remains of a ghost town, and hike part of the Lake Superior Coastal trail- Gargantua Bay to Warp Bay. The hike is most scenic towards the end when you reach the waterfall and then continue on to Warp Bay.

From Gargantua Harbour we headed to Brule Harbour which we had read was one of the prettiest anchorages in the area. Fog rolled in as we were approaching but thankfully it was clear coming into the anchorage itself. We were so glad it was clear because the narrow entrance was amazing to go through and the anchorage itself didn’t disappoint either!

We stayed here for two nights. While anchored here, we took a trip to the nearby Old Woman Bay. Here we got a close-up look at the cliffs that come right up to the water and had a beautiful hike. We also met our first cruising boat in Brule, a steel tug boat from the Georgian Bay.

From Brule, we continued north to Otter Cove. We stayed in Otter Cove for three nights. We had one day that it rained constantly so we mostly stayed inside and worked on boat projects. Once the weather cleared, we explored Old Dave’s Harbour, Otter Island, and Cascade Falls. We had an amazing sunset while we were here and just really enjoyed our time in this beautiful place!

Otter Cove was the furthest north we ventured. We didn’t have the weather window we wanted to continue north. The next anchorages were supposed to be very deep with not a lot of room and we didn’t see any marked hiking trails near the next several anchorages. After much debate, we made the decision to head south. Quebec Harbour on Mitchipicoten Island was our next stop.

Quebec Harbour welcomed us with quite a blow the first night, we saw gusts into the mid-30-knot range. The next two days were also a bit windy but we were still able to get out and explore with the dinghy. There are three visible shipwrecks in this anchorage as well as an old, abandoned fishing village. We also enjoyed a hike to the old lighthouse on Davieaux Island which is at the entrance to the anchorage.

July ended with us continuing south, we landed back in Batchawana for a night before heading back into Sault St. Marie. This time we stayed one night on the Canadian side. Back in a marina we finally got to empty our trash, clean the boat up a bit, and reprovision with groceries again. Next up will be the North Channel!

For details on hours sailed, motored, how much spent and more statistics check out our post- July Cruising Stats.

August 2023 Slowing Down in the North Channel

Categories
cruising log

July 2023 Cruising Stats & Spending

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616 Miles Traveled
257 Sailing
359 Motoring

We had to motor quite a bit to get up the St Mary's River, and Lake Superior had very light winds in July. We sailed as much as we could but only about 42% of the miles traveled. We expect the Great Lakes to be pretty heavy on motoring with it's inconsistent winds

24 Nights on Anchor
2 Nights At Marina

In the 26 nights since we've left the dock at Harbour Towne Marina, we've only spent two nights at marinas: St. Ignace and Sault Ste. Marie. Our worst night on anchor was at Beaver Island, when we saw 48.8 knots of wind and dragged in the weedy clay bottom.

50 kWh of Solar Generated

In the month of July, we generated 50 kWh of solar power. The lowest our batteries got were 65% state of charge due to getting rained out for a day and a half. Overall our solar has topped our batteries off by mid-day when sunny

$1,372 Total Spent
$44.25 Average Per Day

Boat repairs and upgrades were higher than expected due to issues with our dinghy's outboard carburetor, and some final trips to West Marine and Home Depot for the water system before departing. Fuel was higher than we expect on average, but we knew the first few months of our voyage would have higher fuel costs. Starlink was less than it will normally be due to an account credit we had. It will normally be $150/month. We did have to get a phone plan (Mint Mobile) to be able to make phone calls over WiFi Calling as we weren't able to figure out how to do it with Google Voice.