Tag: cruising sailboat

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DIY Projects sailing Sailing Upgrades

How to Make a DIY Swim platform

We don’t have an easy way on/off our sailboat SV Resande so we decided to make our own swim platform. Back in the 70’s when Resande was built swim platforms weren’t really a thing boat builders added. We weren’t sure exactly how it would turn out but figured it was worth a shot. We actually ended up really happy with it.

Our boat has a pretty narrow stern. We knew we didn’t want too big of a swim platform so that it didn’t look out of place. We actually used the seat from inside our dinghy as a reference point. It felt like a fairly good size, large enough for one of us to comfortably sit on. Having this seat to base our design off of also meant we could bring that seat to the boatyard, hold it up to the back of the boat and get somewhat of an idea what it may look like before proceeding further.

From there we made a wood form/frame so we could finalize the size we wanted. Once we were happy with our design we brought the wood platform to the boat to help ensure we liked the fit. We also needed to make sure we could match the angle of our stern so that we can actually install the swim platform and have it lay flat against the hull. Our stern has both an angle and a radius, making it a compound angle to attempt to match. We measured the angle (about 70 degrees) with a goniometer from Erika’s work, and measured a 2″ deflection over 24″ of length on the back (1″ per foot).

Back at home, we used a miter saw to cut the exact angle of the wood frame. For the radius, I’m sure there’s a great fancy mathematical way to calculate this, but I simply took a tape measure and created a arc on the floor until we found where a centerline meets a 1″ deflection over 12 inches… it was about 68″ if I remember. For this angle, we used a flexible piece of scrap metal from work, we screwed it to the wood frame to get both the miter angle and this moderate radius. We used some thin plastic sheeting (meant to cover windows to keep cold air out in the winter) to wrap the wood so we could fiberglass using the frame then “pop” out our swim platform. We also used some old plastic to draw in where our ladder would go to better size the swim platform up. We screwed the plastic and the wood frame to another scrap piece of wood so we could keep everything still and square as we worked.

Here’s the wood frame screwed to the scrap wood base, coated in plastic

We chose not to make the entire platform out of straight fiberglass but instead use some core material. We have used this form core for some of our re-coring projects and found it very easy to use. It was perfect for this project as well. For the ladder mount areas, we decided to reinforce with 1/4″ G10.

As a completely fresh build, we used vinyl polyester resin for this project. We first laid down a layer of wetted out 1.5 oz chopped strand mat, which form fits to the corners and started up the undercut angle. We then layered on layer of 1708 Biaxial, added in the foam core and G10, then two more layers of 1708 Biaxial

Fresh out of the mold, before grinding away the excess
To reinforce, we added two ‘ribs’ of foam and glassed over them with 1708 Biaxial and epoxy resin. The foam was only to create the angled rib for structure.

After a few layers of faring it was back to the boat to again check the fit and make sure we were happy.

We used Total Boat topside primer and then wet edge topside paint. We chose to match the dark blue of the boat hull.

Once the blue paint was finished we installed the swim ladder and then taped out were we wanted to add total boat non-skin paint.

Two coats of Total Boat white non-skid paint coved the blue well and we were very happy with how it turned out. We will be installing this soon and will then update this post with how it all ends up.

What do you think? We think it turned out pretty great, and can’t wait to put it to use this summer!

Categories
DIY Projects Sailing Upgrades

Total Cost to Turn a Great Lakes Cruiser into a Live-Aboard Bluewater Sailboat

As I write this post, I’m sitting on my couch in the final months of our two-year refit that started in spring 2021. We purchased Resande, our 1976 Ericson 39B in September 2020 and got to sail her down to our home port of Muskegon before hauling out for winter. Starting with that trip, we started putting a project list together for what it would take to get her “Liveaboard Ready”. We broke this out by system, and looking back we were a little optimistic about the refit budget when we started.

We knew when we bought Resande we’d have some re-coring projects due to do. I won’t go in-depth on them here, but as DIY projects they’re time-consuming but not that expensive. only a couple hundred dollars in materials for all four areas we re-cored. Paying a professional would have been thousands since it’s all about the time it takes to make it look pretty again. Here is our entire Master Project List.

Cost of Purchasing Resande

We purchased Resande for $55,000 + 6% Michigan Sales tax for a grand total of $58,300. This was in the aftermath of COVID buying where Boats, RV’s, and most recreation was selling fast. We jumped on the listing almost right away after looking all summer. She fit almost all of our requirements and was actually more of a ‘blue water’ boat than we were even looking for. We did a partial survey where we found moisture in the foredeck, cabin top, and helm – all of which have been fixed as of this writing.

Cost of the Refit

Our initial estimate for the refit was $25,000, but we ended up replacing the (original to the boat) standing rigging for peace of mind, the electrical refit also ended up being quite a bit more than anticipated as the scope expanded. Below is a breakdown of actual vs. estimated refit costs. The total refit was about $34,400, bringing our total investment in Resande to just under $93,000.

Electrical System – $7,893

In deciding on a boat, we knew most boats purchased in the Great Lakes would need most of this list replaced or upgraded. The dated electrical system for any boat in our price range was going to need a complete overhaul especially since we planned to switch to Lithium. We ended up using the Explorist Life 200-400ah Diagram and following the videos and bill of materials almost exactly. We ended up with the following system:

  • 400 AH Battle Born Batteries
  • 2000w Victron Multiplus Charger/Inverter
  • 525 Watts of Solar
  • Victron MPPT Charge Controller
  • Victron Lynx distributor
  • DC/DC Charger for dissimilar chemistries
  • All new AC wiring
  • New AC disconnect and Panel with Rev. Polarity
  • BMV 712 Smart Battery Monitor
  • 130 Amp Balmar inverter, with Balmar charge controller and Perkins 4108 Serpentine belt kit

Standing Rigging – $7,200

This one wasn’t really on our radar when we bought the boat. Many boats in the Great Lakes never have standing rigging replaced. The previous owner told me himself you don’t need to replace standing rigging on a freshwater boat. In researching, I found all kinds of conflicting opinions on freshwater standing rigging. The common theme was that the risk is that with age stainless steel work hardens and gets brittle over time – for our boat (47 years young) you could make a good assumption that the rigging was well past its prime. Since we don’t have an exact plan for how long we’ll be cruising, the peace of mind of knowing we’ve got a brand new rig that can take us around the world if we wanted was worth the investment.

Water System – $4,400

We just ordered the 17 GPH Seawater Pro watermaker for about $4k. We also purchased an Acuva Arrowmax UV 2.0 water purifier since we’ll be drinking water out of our stainless water storage tanks.

Steering – $3,930

Our boat came with an old Raymarine X1 Wheel Pilot, which we removed (and actually sold piece by piece for about $700 on Ebay!) to install a below-deck Garmin autopilot. We went with Garmin due to a family friend who works there getting us a discount, and it’s worked great so far. We also bought a 40″ Lewmar folding steering wheel. The original wheel on Resande was only 32″ so it’s a really nice upgrade.

Liveability – $3,850

There were a few things we knew needed replacing if we were going to live on Resande. First off was the mattress – we ditched the thin old one for a big upgrade for about $750: DIY Boat V-berth Mattress: Step by step guide. We also got our cushions re-upholstered in our Saloon was $1900. Finally, a more fun one was putting Seadek in our cockpit was about $1,200

Davits – $2,200

We went back and forth on what to do about dinghy davits. Really the main contenders were between a tower (Towers in a box) or the Garhauer DD 6-2 Davits. We ended up going with the Garhauer davits since they were a lower all-in cost and I was confident we’d be able to fit them on our very narrow stern of Resande. Resande is only about 60″ wide at the stern, which is slightly lower than the minimum on the towers. We likely could have made it work with some side mounts a bit more forward, but combined with the overall cost I settled on the Davits. As of now we haven’t installed them so, we’ll still have to see how they turn out.

Ground Tackle – $1,950

The original anchor on our boat was a 35 lb CQR. Not a bad anchor by any means, but the newest generation anchors have made significant leaps in both holding power and ability to re-set. The two most important things you want in an anchor. Really the new generation of ‘digging’ anchors are essentially an inverted plow anchor. Instead of creating resistance by plowing the seabed, these anchors dig down into the seabed. We chose to go with a Mantus 55 lb M1 Anchor slightly oversized for our boat, as the calculator put us near that threshold between 45 and 55 lbs – we opted for the heavier option.

Attaching us to the anchor, we ended up with an all-chain rode – we ended up splitting a 550 ft barrel with another boat which netted about 275 ft per boat. Since this is arguably more chain than we really need in most cases (5:1 gets us to about 35 ft of depth with 175 ft) we actually keep about 100 ft (and about 100 lbs) of chain in the v-berth locker which is below the waterline and closer to the center of the boat. On the rare occasion we’re anchoring in deeper water we can always move more chain to the anchor locker, but this setup should get us through the Caribbean without issue. I’ll probably add about 50 ft of nylon rode that we can get to and cut off in an emergency.

Finally, the M1 anchor didn’t quite fit with the original bow roller. we ended up buying the Mantus Bow roller and fitting it onto the bow of the boat. to this day, we’re still trying to figure out how to get it to roll off without hitting our jib furler, but that’s a different post altogether.

Other – $1,690

This is a bit of a catch-all. Epoxy, paint, coring material, lights, fans, wires, connectors, pumps, rebuild kits, spare parts. The dozens of random projects we’ve done to get everything ready to go. This is probably much lower than the real number.

Safety – $1,070

For Safety, we added an AIS, Jack lines, and a bunch of random smaller projects to make sure we stay on the boat and upright.

Running Rigging – $400

Not a huge surprise, but we had several lines that needed replacement: Main sheet, overhaul on the reefing system, furling line, etc.

Waste – $250

Our initial plan was to buy a Composting head from Nature’s Head or C-Head. Due to dimensional constraints, we ended up making our own version for a fraction of the cost and probably ended up with something a bit better since it’s exactly what we need for the exact space. We detailed the process we went through here: DIY Composting Head.

What do you think – would you have made the same upgrades or did we miss something big that you would have done? Leave a comment below!

Categories
Sailing Upgrades

Choosing the Right Watermaker for a Cruising Sailboat

As part of our refit on S.V. Resande, we have decided we want the ability to desalinate seawater to make our own water. Our goal is to disconnect as much as possible from the resources ashore, and water, like electricity is a critical utility to achieve that.

There are a several different options when considering a Reverse Osmosis desalination system. In this post, we’re going to look at offerings from two different companies: Seawater Pro and Spectra. Most watermakers are constructed similar to the Seawater Pro, it actually isn’t even that difficult to piece together your own kit as all the components are fairly easy to source.

One of the main considerations you need to keep in mind is the energy efficiency of your system. Electricity is another finite resource when cruising, and you need a robust system to power this process. Of the options we’re looking at, two are 110V AC powered and the other three are DC powered. It’s really important to understand whether your AC or DC system will be able to provide the needed electricity to the motors. We completely refit Resande’s electrical system, so the options we’re considering below will all work with our system. I’ll be comparing the five different models for their Price, Energy Efficiency, Output, Reliability, and Overall Size

Cost is an important factor that will influence your decision. All of these options are a large investment when refitting a boat, and money is always a constraint. Cost is especially when you consider it’s inverse relationship with energy efficiency: generally speaking, the more you pay, the more efficient your system will be. Below is a table of the five units we’re looking at, pricing is as of December 2022: Winner: Seawater Pro 40 GPH

ModelPrice Gallons/ Hour (GPH)Cost per Gallon-Hour
 Seawater Pro ACC 110 20 GPH $  2,995.0020 $     149.75
 Seawater Pro DC 12 17 GPH $  3,495.0017 $     205.59
 Seawater Pro ACC 110 40 GPH $  3,495.0040 $       87.38
Spectra VT150 $  7,300.006.3 $  1,158.73
Spectra VT200 $  7,900.008.3 $     951.81

Energy Efficiency Just like money, electricity is another finite resource on a boat. Cruising is all about managing your resources. Once you’ve determined if your electrical system is capable of running each option, you need to look at the differences in efficiency. The easiest way to do this is to bring it down to a comparable metric, in this case Watts Per Gallon. I pulled the specs off these models to give rough estimates of the efficiency you can expect from each. The unique thing about the Spectra watermakers is their low energy consumption. Spectra does this by reclaiming some of the pressure with what’s called a Clark pump. It’s impressive that you can desalinate water for 120 watts or less, which should be easily handled by most unmodified electrical systems. They are by far the most efficient option, but you do pay for it in up front costs. Winner: Spectra models

BrandModelGallons/ Hour (GPH)WattsWatts/Gallon (Efficiency)
SeaWater Pro Seawater Pro ACC 110 20 GPH20970                    48.50
SeaWater Pro Seawater Pro DC 12V 17 GPH17600                    35.29
SeaWater Pro Seawater Pro ACC 110 40 GPH40970                    24.25
SpectraSpectra VT1506.3107                    17.00
SpectraSpectra VT2008.3120                    14.50

Cost Vs. Efficiency: as I mentioned before, cost and efficiency have an inverse relationship with these watermakers. The graph below helps illustrate the relationship between up front cost and watts per gallon

Output is important to understand how much time it takes to fill your tanks. The options we’re looking at here vary from 6.3 GPH to 40 GPH. Resande has 80 gallons of water, which would take anywhere from nearly 13 hours to only 2 hours to fill from completely empty. In some ways, output is irrelevant, and you should focus on efficiency since time itself isn’t typically a constraint. You likely aren’t using 80 gallons per day, and you could use the Spectra option for one hour per day to replace your daily consumption. On the other hand, I could see us running the watermaker during peak sunlight hours, where we’re putting nearly 500+ watts of solar to take some of that load off the stored energy in the battery bank. During our shakedown trip in Summer 2022 to South Manitou, we proved out our electrical system with only 350 watts of solar installed. With the weather we had, our batteries were regularly topped off from the night’s consumption by around noon each day, and any additional sunlight was just going to waste the rest of the day. It would be great to convert that to water. Winner: Neutral/Depends on tankage and usage

Reliability I will preface this by saying I have heard nothing negative about the reliability of the Spectra watermakers. That being said, the Spectra Clark pump and spare parts are proprietary and therefore not easily replaceable. If you’re in a remote island, you’re probably not getting your watermaker fixed anytime soon. The Seawater Pro, uses simple and common components that a fellow cruiser may even have. Winner: Seawater Pro models

Overall Size: On a boat, the space required for additional equipment always needs to be a consideration. The Seawater Pro 40 GPH for example has two large 40″ membranes and a high pressure pump with motor. The Spectra however uses a 20″ membrane and it’s all packaged with the Clark pump to be one compact unit. Either one will require space, and depending on the available space one option may be easier to install than the other. You will want to make sure it’s physically located near the main positive bus bar since you’ll likely be pulling heavy amperage (needing heavy gauge wiring) with the Seawater Pro options. The Spectra options would give significantly greater flexibility due to their size, shape, and lower current draw.

Deciding between Seawater Pro models: As of right now, we’re deciding between the three Seawater Pro options.

  • The 20 GPH model makes the least sense on paper, however you could easily upgrade it to 40 GPH in the future just by buying an additional membrane. It’s the cheapest option, and smaller than the 40 GPH in our space constraints
  • The 17 GPH model is more efficient than the 20 GPH option, but a bit pricier. Apples to apples with the 20 GPH it’s probably worth the additional $500. It has a lower current draw at 600W (50 Amps) and runs directly off DC, so you don’t have to worry about involving the inverter to make water.
  • The 40 GPH option is the same price as the DC 17 GPH option, but you get 2.3X the output. You do have to deal with a second membrane and it’s the highest efficiency of the three Seawater Pro options

March 2023 Update: We just received our watermaker yesterday. We ended up going with the 17 GPH DC Powered Seawater Pro model. We also added in the control panel since we wanted to do it right, do it once, and the extra cost would be offset by the countless times we’d be able to avoid ripping apart our aft to operate it in the future.

One more option: at nearly the last minute, we strongly considered going with the Sun Pure Watermaker option, which is very similarly priced and spec’d to the Seawater Pro. The nice thing about it was it’s local here in Michigan, so we’d be able to support a local business and save money on shipping. We still ended up going with Seawater Pro because the quality of the plumbing fittings and flush system looked slightly higher and more importantly the membrane housing is reinforced with the stainless steel rods (2:00 on this video) which help protect from hydraulic shock that can happen, specifically on a boat.

Please leave a comment below letting us know what you would do!

Categories
sailing Sailing Upgrades

Must Have Boat Buying Criteria for Cruising

When we looked at buying a boat, we had some specific criteria. We knew we would need to make several upgrades for cruising, but wanted to make sure we had a good foundation. After a lot of research we set up the following criteria:

Requirements:

  • Freshwater only (Great Lakes)
  • ‘blue-water’ capable 
    • We weeded out a few, but not all production boat brands
  • 36-42 feet – large enough to live on for an extended period, but within our price range
  • Draft of no more than 6’
  • Functional layout
  • Easy to sail short-handed
  • Large tankage for fuel/water
  • $45-65k – This seemed to be the sweet spot for older boats in good condition.

Not required, but would need to have a discount if they were missing/in poor condition

  • Good sails with a lot of life left in them
  • Self-tailing winches
  • Dodger/Bimini
  • Good running/standing rigging
  • Electric windlass

Bonus items – we’d upgrade if they aren’t included 

  • Stack pack
  • Modern anchor
  • Full canvas enclosure
  • Updated electronics
  • Reliable autopilot

When we purchased Resande (learn about our boat here!), we immediately knew she checked a lot of these boxes. She even had some of the bonus items listed. Still, we knew it was going to require a long list of upgrades to take her from a Great Lakes cruiser for short trips to one that could handle a trip to the Atlantic and down to the Caribbean. We are continuing to refine this list, prioritizing some items sooner than others. The previous owner had spared no expense maintaining and updating many of the items above. Below is a list of the upgrades for cruising we currently have put together. These will be listed by area/system, and I will include an Excel file for people like me that think in spreadsheets.

Boat Projects

  • Fix de-lamination in foredeck (re-core)
  • Tower in a box or davit system for Dinghy
  • Replace one head with a composting toilet
  • New lifelines
  • New halyards (main, headsail, staysail)
  • New under-deck autopilot
  • Add reverse osmosis water maker 
  • Seal mast step with engine paint or other (known corrosion issues with these boats, probably not an issue for years since it’s always been in fresh water, but worth getting it right now)
  • Put together “spare parts” list/kits

Electrical System: overall is in decent condition, the DC system was professionally redone in 2009, but there are some areas for improvement:

  • Battery Charger upgrade – right now the old charger is ancient, and the surveyor recommended upgrading it
  • Inverter – be able to run small appliances, water maker
  • Battery bank – right now our house bank is only about 100 AH, and one of the batteries was leaking/bad when we bought the boat. We are looking at upgrading to Firefly Carbon Foam AGM batteries unless a better lithium option comes on the market in the next few years. We are thinking around 350 AH in the house bank
  • DC – USB outlets. Small project, but makes a big difference being able to plug a phone cable directly into the wall without AC power. 
  • Solar Panels – need to work out the sizing (will post calculations on here) but likely 2 X 175 watt panels on a tower, with 2-3 more flexible 80-100 watt panels on the dodger
  • Replace all outlets w/ GFCI 

LED Lighting to Replace any Incandescent or Fluorescent bulbs to reduce current draw

  • Navigation Lights
  • Spreader Lights
  • Mast head light
  • Mast head navigation light
  • Nav station lights 
  • Cockpit lighting
  • Fluorescent replacements:
    • Aft
    • Both heads

Ground Tackle

  • Mantus 45lb M1 anchor
  • 150’ of chain
  • Mantus bridle w/ chain hook
  • Mantus swivel
  • Mantus dinghy anchor

Download Excel File

I’m sure we will be adding to this list and updating it with more details, specifics, and in-depth explanations of why we went with certain products. We don’t have any affiliations or with these products or companies, we try to research products to find the best value.

Categories
DIY Projects sailing Sailing Upgrades

Re-Coring the Foredeck

Similar to the cockpit, we knew our foredeck was wet when we purchased Resande. It’s a common issue on old boats where hardware goes through the deck if the owner isn’t keeping up on leaks. We decided to tackle this project in Fall 2021, after hauling out for the season. We’re also not planning to add back our staysail boom. We’ll have a post about how we’re rigging the staysail without a boom in the future. Most of the steps are identical to our Recoring the cockpit post, but we decided to do something a bit different for the high-load areas that have the highest risk of future leaks. As you can see in the pictures, we used 3/4″ plywood just like the cockpit. The difference is we made inserts out of 1/2″ thick G10 fiberglass board and glassed these inserts into the plywood prior to laminating.

The areas we did this in are the high load areas: windlass bolts, new port & starboard cleats, and the staysail tacking point. These areas will all have thru-bolts and will benefit from the high compressive strength of G10 (plywood or balsa core will deflect under a highly tightened bolt).

Resande’s foredeck has a lot of hardware due to our staysail. We aren’t planning to continue using a staysail boom, but we do plan to add a second foredeck cleat.
All of the hardware now removed, we start to understand the scope of the water intrusion.
After cutting the top shell of the fiberglass off, we scrape out the wet and rotten wood. We used an angle grinder to remove the top shell. Scraping, then sanding down to the lower fiberglass shell to make sure you adhere to something solid when you put the new core in.
This is the new core piece. As mentioned before, we added pieces of G10 where the high load hardware is located. Above in the picture is the layout: Staysail will attach in the top insert; the two small inserts in the middle will be cleats, and the large one at a diagonal is where the windlass will bolt through.
We used multiple layers of 17oz biaxial fiberglass cloth to build up the 1/4″ difference between the 1/2″ G10 and 3/4″ Plywood. this was on purpose, and we beveled out the plywood so we could build the layers up and larger in diameter.
Not shown, but we made relief cuts on the underside to help contour to the shape of the deck. The deck is slightly crowned, so we needed to flex the new core down on the side, we used pieces of wood to help clamp them down as the resin cured
After the core is in place, we ground the edges to a bevel to make a smooth and seamless transition. Our goal is that this new edge is nearly invisible.
As with the cockpit, we did 3 coats of fairing. This step is much like mudding drywall to try to get the seamless transition from the old to the new. We used the West Systems. Fair, sand, repeat until happy.
The final layer of fairing we used micro-balloons, which sand even easier for a nice final finish before gelcoat.

We used Total Boat topside paint instead of gelcoat. We decided to go with white and not try to match the foredeck color to the rest of our non-skid. We are planning to paint total boat non-skid in this area when we get a warm, dry day.

We also decided to go with a cleat on each side and not just replace the one center cleat we had previously.
We moved the placement of our winless buttons and added a wash-down pump on deck.
A final look with everything back in place. Completely done except the non-skid paint.

What do you think? Questions on our process or suggestions for our next project? Leave us a comment below.

Categories
DIY Projects sailing Sailing Upgrades

How we Re-Cored our Cockpit

On our sail down to Muskegon from Bowers Harbor, we noticed flexing under the helm when steering hard. We knew moisture was high from the survey, but we didn’t think of the practical concern and thought it would be a ‘someday’ project. After that sail down, we knew it was a critical project for the safety of the boat, so it was the first place we decided to tackle.

The area that was wet & rotten was the entire helm area, to just forward the steering pedestal (which we had to remove. The 4 bolt heads aft of the pedestal hold the steering brackets on our Ericson. All the steering hardware had to be removed prior to recoring the deck here.
Chiseling out the rotten and wet core. Our cockpit has end-grain balsa core which does a nice job of isolating water intrusion to close to the hardware. We were able to get all the bad stuff out with a chisel, hammer, crow bar, and anything else that can do some damage. We also found a straight bit on a router set to the right depth can help make this process quicker when you hit the high moisture but still bonded areas.
After the core is removed prep the area: Sand, remove any old fibers or wood, and wipe with acetone.
The final product before the new core. We ended up extending it forward more than our original tapping.
We cut the core to shape, ground down the edges with an angle grinder, and used West Systems 403 filler to epoxy the core down to the bottom layer. We tried to grind a groove into outer edge to make sure when we were done with the project, the water still drained well to the corners.
After the core was bonded and ground out, we glassed it in with 1708 Biaxial fiberglass, which is basically a three-in-one fiberglass material for additional strength.
After the first fairing with West System 410 Fairing filler, we had to add an additional layer of fiberglass mat to build up the area to make it level. After each layer of fairing, we sand smooth and find low spots and imperfections. Expect 2-3 fairing layers to get the finish you want.
After the third layer of fairing, we sanded heavily. While it doesn’t look smooth visually, your hand is a much better gauge.
Once happy with the fairing, we reinstalled the steering pedestal to get the boat ready to go in the water.
We primed the repaired area with Total Boat Topside Primer, then finished with Total Boat Wet Edge Topside Paint. We used a foam roller with moderate success (it disintegrated pretty quickly)
To be continued… we are getting Seadek in our cockpit! This is a picture of the templates we made and sent back to Seadek to be scanned. The process overall was very smooth, which we’ll show in a future post!

Hope you learned something, let us know if you’ve ever done core work on your boat. If so, how did you do it differently, and have any advice for us in the future? Let us know in the comments below!

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