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DIY Projects sailing Sailing Upgrades

How to Make a DIY Swim platform

We don’t have an easy way on/off our sailboat SV Resande so we decided to make our own swim platform. Back in the 70’s when Resande was built swim platforms weren’t really a thing boat builders added. We weren’t sure exactly how it would turn out but figured it was worth a shot. We actually ended up really happy with it.

Our boat has a pretty narrow stern. We knew we didn’t want too big of a swim platform so that it didn’t look out of place. We actually used the seat from inside our dinghy as a reference point. It felt like a fairly good size, large enough for one of us to comfortably sit on. Having this seat to base our design off of also meant we could bring that seat to the boatyard, hold it up to the back of the boat and get somewhat of an idea what it may look like before proceeding further.

From there we made a wood form/frame so we could finalize the size we wanted. Once we were happy with our design we brought the wood platform to the boat to help ensure we liked the fit. We also needed to make sure we could match the angle of our stern so that we can actually install the swim platform and have it lay flat against the hull. Our stern has both an angle and a radius, making it a compound angle to attempt to match. We measured the angle (about 70 degrees) with a goniometer from Erika’s work, and measured a 2″ deflection over 24″ of length on the back (1″ per foot).

Back at home, we used a miter saw to cut the exact angle of the wood frame. For the radius, I’m sure there’s a great fancy mathematical way to calculate this, but I simply took a tape measure and created a arc on the floor until we found where a centerline meets a 1″ deflection over 12 inches… it was about 68″ if I remember. For this angle, we used a flexible piece of scrap metal from work, we screwed it to the wood frame to get both the miter angle and this moderate radius. We used some thin plastic sheeting (meant to cover windows to keep cold air out in the winter) to wrap the wood so we could fiberglass using the frame then “pop” out our swim platform. We also used some old plastic to draw in where our ladder would go to better size the swim platform up. We screwed the plastic and the wood frame to another scrap piece of wood so we could keep everything still and square as we worked.

Here’s the wood frame screwed to the scrap wood base, coated in plastic

We chose not to make the entire platform out of straight fiberglass but instead use some core material. We have used this form core for some of our re-coring projects and found it very easy to use. It was perfect for this project as well. For the ladder mount areas, we decided to reinforce with 1/4″ G10.

As a completely fresh build, we used vinyl polyester resin for this project. We first laid down a layer of wetted out 1.5 oz chopped strand mat, which form fits to the corners and started up the undercut angle. We then layered on layer of 1708 Biaxial, added in the foam core and G10, then two more layers of 1708 Biaxial

Fresh out of the mold, before grinding away the excess
To reinforce, we added two ‘ribs’ of foam and glassed over them with 1708 Biaxial and epoxy resin. The foam was only to create the angled rib for structure.

After a few layers of faring it was back to the boat to again check the fit and make sure we were happy.

We used Total Boat topside primer and then wet edge topside paint. We chose to match the dark blue of the boat hull.

Once the blue paint was finished we installed the swim ladder and then taped out were we wanted to add total boat non-skin paint.

Two coats of Total Boat white non-skid paint coved the blue well and we were very happy with how it turned out. We will be installing this soon and will then update this post with how it all ends up.

What do you think? We think it turned out pretty great, and can’t wait to put it to use this summer!

Categories
DIY Projects Sailing Upgrades

Total Cost to Turn a Great Lakes Cruiser into a Live-Aboard Bluewater Sailboat

As I write this post, I’m sitting on my couch in the final months of our two-year refit that started in spring 2021. We purchased Resande, our 1976 Ericson 39B in September 2020 and got to sail her down to our home port of Muskegon before hauling out for winter. Starting with that trip, we started putting a project list together for what it would take to get her “Liveaboard Ready”. We broke this out by system, and looking back we were a little optimistic about the refit budget when we started.

We knew when we bought Resande we’d have some re-coring projects due to do. I won’t go in-depth on them here, but as DIY projects they’re time-consuming but not that expensive. only a couple hundred dollars in materials for all four areas we re-cored. Paying a professional would have been thousands since it’s all about the time it takes to make it look pretty again. Here is our entire Master Project List.

Cost of Purchasing Resande

We purchased Resande for $55,000 + 6% Michigan Sales tax for a grand total of $58,300. This was in the aftermath of COVID buying where Boats, RV’s, and most recreation was selling fast. We jumped on the listing almost right away after looking all summer. She fit almost all of our requirements and was actually more of a ‘blue water’ boat than we were even looking for. We did a partial survey where we found moisture in the foredeck, cabin top, and helm – all of which have been fixed as of this writing.

Cost of the Refit

Our initial estimate for the refit was $25,000, but we ended up replacing the (original to the boat) standing rigging for peace of mind, the electrical refit also ended up being quite a bit more than anticipated as the scope expanded. Below is a breakdown of actual vs. estimated refit costs. The total refit was about $34,400, bringing our total investment in Resande to just under $93,000.

Electrical System – $7,893

In deciding on a boat, we knew most boats purchased in the Great Lakes would need most of this list replaced or upgraded. The dated electrical system for any boat in our price range was going to need a complete overhaul especially since we planned to switch to Lithium. We ended up using the Explorist Life 200-400ah Diagram and following the videos and bill of materials almost exactly. We ended up with the following system:

  • 400 AH Battle Born Batteries
  • 2000w Victron Multiplus Charger/Inverter
  • 525 Watts of Solar
  • Victron MPPT Charge Controller
  • Victron Lynx distributor
  • DC/DC Charger for dissimilar chemistries
  • All new AC wiring
  • New AC disconnect and Panel with Rev. Polarity
  • BMV 712 Smart Battery Monitor
  • 130 Amp Balmar inverter, with Balmar charge controller and Perkins 4108 Serpentine belt kit

Standing Rigging – $7,200

This one wasn’t really on our radar when we bought the boat. Many boats in the Great Lakes never have standing rigging replaced. The previous owner told me himself you don’t need to replace standing rigging on a freshwater boat. In researching, I found all kinds of conflicting opinions on freshwater standing rigging. The common theme was that the risk is that with age stainless steel work hardens and gets brittle over time – for our boat (47 years young) you could make a good assumption that the rigging was well past its prime. Since we don’t have an exact plan for how long we’ll be cruising, the peace of mind of knowing we’ve got a brand new rig that can take us around the world if we wanted was worth the investment.

Water System – $4,400

We just ordered the 17 GPH Seawater Pro watermaker for about $4k. We also purchased an Acuva Arrowmax UV 2.0 water purifier since we’ll be drinking water out of our stainless water storage tanks.

Steering – $3,930

Our boat came with an old Raymarine X1 Wheel Pilot, which we removed (and actually sold piece by piece for about $700 on Ebay!) to install a below-deck Garmin autopilot. We went with Garmin due to a family friend who works there getting us a discount, and it’s worked great so far. We also bought a 40″ Lewmar folding steering wheel. The original wheel on Resande was only 32″ so it’s a really nice upgrade.

Liveability – $3,850

There were a few things we knew needed replacing if we were going to live on Resande. First off was the mattress – we ditched the thin old one for a big upgrade for about $750: DIY Boat V-berth Mattress: Step by step guide. We also got our cushions re-upholstered in our Saloon was $1900. Finally, a more fun one was putting Seadek in our cockpit was about $1,200

Davits – $2,200

We went back and forth on what to do about dinghy davits. Really the main contenders were between a tower (Towers in a box) or the Garhauer DD 6-2 Davits. We ended up going with the Garhauer davits since they were a lower all-in cost and I was confident we’d be able to fit them on our very narrow stern of Resande. Resande is only about 60″ wide at the stern, which is slightly lower than the minimum on the towers. We likely could have made it work with some side mounts a bit more forward, but combined with the overall cost I settled on the Davits. As of now we haven’t installed them so, we’ll still have to see how they turn out.

Ground Tackle – $1,950

The original anchor on our boat was a 35 lb CQR. Not a bad anchor by any means, but the newest generation anchors have made significant leaps in both holding power and ability to re-set. The two most important things you want in an anchor. Really the new generation of ‘digging’ anchors are essentially an inverted plow anchor. Instead of creating resistance by plowing the seabed, these anchors dig down into the seabed. We chose to go with a Mantus 55 lb M1 Anchor slightly oversized for our boat, as the calculator put us near that threshold between 45 and 55 lbs – we opted for the heavier option.

Attaching us to the anchor, we ended up with an all-chain rode – we ended up splitting a 550 ft barrel with another boat which netted about 275 ft per boat. Since this is arguably more chain than we really need in most cases (5:1 gets us to about 35 ft of depth with 175 ft) we actually keep about 100 ft (and about 100 lbs) of chain in the v-berth locker which is below the waterline and closer to the center of the boat. On the rare occasion we’re anchoring in deeper water we can always move more chain to the anchor locker, but this setup should get us through the Caribbean without issue. I’ll probably add about 50 ft of nylon rode that we can get to and cut off in an emergency.

Finally, the M1 anchor didn’t quite fit with the original bow roller. we ended up buying the Mantus Bow roller and fitting it onto the bow of the boat. to this day, we’re still trying to figure out how to get it to roll off without hitting our jib furler, but that’s a different post altogether.

Other – $1,690

This is a bit of a catch-all. Epoxy, paint, coring material, lights, fans, wires, connectors, pumps, rebuild kits, spare parts. The dozens of random projects we’ve done to get everything ready to go. This is probably much lower than the real number.

Safety – $1,070

For Safety, we added an AIS, Jack lines, and a bunch of random smaller projects to make sure we stay on the boat and upright.

Running Rigging – $400

Not a huge surprise, but we had several lines that needed replacement: Main sheet, overhaul on the reefing system, furling line, etc.

Waste – $250

Our initial plan was to buy a Composting head from Nature’s Head or C-Head. Due to dimensional constraints, we ended up making our own version for a fraction of the cost and probably ended up with something a bit better since it’s exactly what we need for the exact space. We detailed the process we went through here: DIY Composting Head.

What do you think – would you have made the same upgrades or did we miss something big that you would have done? Leave a comment below!

Categories
DIY Projects Sailing Upgrades

Resande Master Project List

Below is the running list of projects we’ve done and are planning to do on Resande. Where relevant, we included links to blog posts tied to projects on the list

  • 2021
    • Replaced Core in Cockpit
    • 55 lb Mantus M1 anchor & BR2 Bow Roller
    • Electrical Phase 1:
      • Inverter/Charger
      • Wiring upgrade
      • Lynx distribution Bus bar
      • Victron BMV 712/Shunt
      • AC Panel
      • MPPT Solar charger
      • 2x175W Flexible Solar panel
    • Remove Forward head, convert to dedicated shower
    • Reinforce foredeck & staysail bulkhead
  • 2022
    • 275 ft Chain
      • Build lower chain box for 100ft
    • Re-cored cabin top
    • Re-upholster cushions
    • New Furling line
    • New main sheet & traveler control lines
    • Low-friction reefing system
    • Self-tacking staysail rigging
    • Install Garmin Class A Autopilot
    • Electrical Phase 2:
      • 400AH Battle Born Lithium Batteries
      • DC/DC Charger
      • DC wiring cleanup
      • All new AC Wiring
    • Build & Install Composting Toilet
    • Install SeaDek
    • New speed & temp transducer
    • Re-finish all teak
    • New mattress
    • Jabsco Hotshot Washdown pump
    • Lewmar 40″ Folding Wheel (replacing 32″ Edson destroyer wheel)
    • Soundproof engine bay
    • Cat door

On Deck for 2023:

  • New spreader lights
  • Electrical Phase 3:
    • 120 amp Balmar Alternator
    • K6 Belt conversion for Perkins 4108
    • MC-618 Charge controller
  • New standing rigging
  • Re-core deck above forward head
  • 525+ Watts Solar
  • Davits
  • Underwater lights
  • Swim platform/ladder
  • Redo rudder (foam, fiberglass)
  • Watermaker
  • Custom cat litter box