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First Big Sail: Bower’s Harbor to Muskegon

When we bought our boat (SV Resande), we knew it was the end of the season and about 180 nautical miles from where we wanted to store her for winter. We bought the boat in Bower’s Harbor, near Traverse City Michigan but planned to store it in Muskegon for the winter. We closed on the boat on September 25th, and at that time we had never sailed on our own. The goal was to get the boat to Muskegon before they pulled the docks for winter in Bowers Harbor on October 10. We decided to sail down the first weekend of October.

Bower’s Harbor Marina, our starting point

Before this trip, our sailing experience included two sailing lessons with friends on their boat, a day sail on our boat with the previous owners, and one day sail on our own. In total maybe 7 hours of experience. In preparation, we had also been reading and researching as much as we could. We found the American Sailing Associations books to be helpful (ASA 101, 103).  We had previous boating experience on Lake Michigan with the powerboat we owned prior to buying our sailboat. While we were nervous about the length of the trip, we felt we could safely make the passage despite our limited experience. 

The Route

Bower’s Harbor is about halfway up Old Mission Peninsula so it is located in the West Arm of Grand Traverse Bay. The bay is between Old Mission and Leelanau Peninsula. We first had to go around the Leelanau Peninsula, so we could start heading south down the Lake Michigan coastline to Muskegon. Assuming 5.5 knot average speed, we estimated this trip would take 32 hours of sailing.

Bowers Harbor to Muskegon sailing route
Our Route: Bower’s Harbor to Muskegon

We checked the weather forecast repeatedly the week before we left. We planned to leave Bower’s Harbor early on a Saturday morning. By Monday we were expecting to see gale-force winds from directly out of the south (on our nose). We planned to complete our trip in three days, which would get us into port at Muskegon before the weather turned. Given the weather, we decided to push a lot of miles the first day to set us up for a shorter day on Monday to beat the gales.

  • Day 1 Bower’s Harbor to Frankfort: 77 nautical miles ~14 hours
  • Day 2 Frankfort to Pentwater: 55 nautical miles ~10 hours
  • Day 3 Pentwater to Muskegon: 44 nautical miles ~8 hours


Day 1: Bower’s Harbor to Frankfurt, 77 nautical miles 

We woke up super early to get this day started. This was our longest day and we were anxious to get going. We pulled all the dock lines and were off the dock by 5 AM. From Bower’s Harbor, we had to navigate past a few shallow spots near the small island just outside the marina. Once we were past those we could easily navigate north up the Leelanau Peninsula, working our way out of the Grand Traverse Bay. We made a quick detour to Northport, near the top of the Leelanau Peninsula to top up our diesel. 

Ericson 39B
Ryan’s dad – our crew, sleeping on the job!

 The entire day there was pretty much no wind. We had about 10 knots for about 10-15 minutes but other than that we motored all day. It was a cold and cloudy day with some sprinkles of rain along the way. We passed the Manitou Islands and the Sleeping Bear dunes, getting some beautiful views along the way. Since we were just motoring this was a very easy day. We were able to set ‘Old Ray’ (our autopilot) on a bearing and move about without too much intervention. We were relaxed, we cooked breakfast and lunch underway, using both our oven and our stove.
In total it took us about 14 hours to reach Frankfort. We arrived just before sunset so we were able to dock before dark. Once we were docked we enjoyed a warm shower at the marina and then closed ourselves in down below to stay warm and out of the rain. We cooked dinner on the boat and went to bed early. 

Day 2: Frankfurt to Pentwater, 55 nautical miles 

We slept in a little bit this morning, we were off the dock by about 7:30 AM. The wind was out of the north/northeast at about 10-15 knots at the start of the day, building to 15-20 knots. Since we were heading south, we could sail on a run/broad reach most of the day. 

We hooked up a preventer line to keep from accidentally jibing. Due to the coastline, we had to jibe several times since we couldn’t keep the sails full on a true run. We would sail with the waves for a while then have to head out further from the coastline going parallel to the waves for a bit. The waves started at 3-5 ft and built to 5-7 ft as the day went on. The boat handled the waves really well. It was another mostly cloudy day, we did get some sun but it was still cold. In total, this stretch of the trip took about 10 hours. We had great speed over ground most of the day but probably added 8 nautical miles due to having to jibe.

We had to hand steer this entire day. ‘Old Ray’ couldn’t handle the weight of the boat under sail and the belt that drives it was slipping. We bought a replacement belt that will hopefully fix it, but for this trip, he was pretty much useless unless we were motoring. We also discovered our house battery bank had a bad battery. When we stopped the engine to sail, the Autopilot (which was barely working) only lasted about 20 minutes before flashing ‘low battery’.

 Again we arrived before dark so we could dock with some light. We were physically and mentally exhausted from all the sailing. Since we are new sailers, everything isn’t second nature to us yet. We still have to really think about each step and each time we have to jibe or adjust the sails. After two long days, we were ready for a little time off the boat. We walked into town and enjoyed a beer and a burger at the Brown Bear pub. It felt great to be inside and to be warm at least for a little while! 

Heading into Pentwater

Day 3: Pentwater to Muskegon, 41 nautical miles 

Our final day! We had been checking and rechecking the forecast. The gales were supposed to hit Muskegon at about 2-3 PM. So in order to beat the weather we left Pentwater in the dark at 5 AM. The wind started off out of the west at about 10-15 knots so we comfortably sailed south on a beam reach for a few hours. We had a full moon and clear skies so we could easily see. Between the cold and the wind we were freezing this entire day! We had a beautiful sunrise and mostly sunny skies but it was still very cold!


Shortly after sunrise the wind shifted to more straight out of the south and picked up a bit. We continued sailing a bit longer then motor sailed on a tight close reach the rest of the way to help make time and get in before the high winds. We heeled to about 20-25 degrees most of the sail. Once we got used to it this became more comfortable. The heeling was something that made Erika nervous before the trip but by the end she barely noticed. We had 3-5 ft waves on our beam most of the day. They began building in the last hour of our sail and we could feel the wind picking up more.  In total this day was about 8 hours. 

It was such a great feeling when we finally made it! We gained a ton of experience on this three-day trip! We know that we still have a lot to learn! But we feel like we can officially call ourselves sailers! 

Docked in Muskegon, we made it!

We have more on our lessons learned from this sail on our post here

What resources have you found helpful in learning to sail? Any advice? Leave us a comment below!